Every man wants a great head of hair, but when you have fine hair or thin hair, it can feel like an uphill battle. As far as types of hair go, fine hair lacks structure, which means that the individual strands of hair are smaller and thinner than other hair types. Fine hair is soft and most often found in lighter hair colors, like blond or light brown, but it can still be thick (thickness has to do with the actual amount of hair you have, not the structure of the individual strands). Still, having fine hair means “It doesn’t want to do a lot,” says barber Doug Paster. “It’s not buoyant or textured. It tends to be more limp and flat or straight and smooth.”
Without the benefit of natural volume or texture, what haircut you have and how you style fine hair is important. “It’s all about adding texture,” says Axe master barber Pedro Rosario. A good texturizing cut can make fine hair look fuller and livelier. Styling products can help with that, too.
How To Style Fine Hair
The enemy of fine hair is anything that is going to weigh it down. That means staying away from goopy pomades and heavy waxes. “Think of things that are going to superficially create volume,” says trichologist Bridgette Hall, like dry shampoo. Spraying a little dry shampoo at the roots of dry, fine hair will give it volume and texture without the weight of other products. Think of it like a hairspray, but with an added cleansing benefit, advises Paster, which is perfect for fine hair since excess oil from your scalp can weigh it down, too.
Other lightweight products, like salt sprays and mousses, can help create texture and volume well in fine hair. “Mousses are great for a guy who doesn’t want a sticky feel,” says Hall, who also advises to make friends with your blow dryer. Use the blow dryer to help lift hair up from the roots as it dries, which will make fine hair appear fuller. “Don’t use a lot of heat - keep it on a cool temperature,” she says, since too much heat could dry out fine hair more easily and make it brittle.
Hall also advises on using water-based products, which are less likely to weigh down hair, and to consider using a hair rinse instead of a shampoo. “With fine hair, the natural oils from the scalp can build up more quickly,” she says, but traditional shampoos can either weigh down fine hair or strip it till it’s dry and brittle. Instead, use a hair rinse to clean away oil easily. Follow with a lightweight conditioner specifically formulated for fine hair.
Apart from styling, there are certain haircuts that are ideally suited for fine hair. The combination of the perfect haircut and styling products can give even the limpest, finest hair new life. Here are the best hairstyles for men with fine hair.
Classic Swoop
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As seen on Kris Wu
It’s tempting to keep fine hair short, but growing a little extra length, especially on top, gives you more options. This riff on a classic style adds height by pushing hair up and back, with the aid of dry shampoo. “It gives you foundation at the root and then you’re able to manipulate it—you can make it messy or you can make it soft,” says Hall. Finish with a little hairspray to keep it in place.
The Push-Back
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As seen on Joe Alwyn
Similar to the swoop, this cut is slightly longer all over the head, which gives you even more styling options. The version you see here is slightly more formal and slicked, but it can look equally good messy (which adds visual texture). “When it’s longer on top and pushed back away from your face, use a root spray to get more volume into it,” advises Paster.
Texture On Top
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As seen on Miguel
Fine hair isn’t always straight—if you have natural curl to your fine hair, show it off! This cut keeps it short on the sides and longer on top, which allows the natural curl to add volume and texture and elongate the face.
Short Side Waves
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As seen on Troye Sivan
Even if you don’t have a natural wave to your hair, a longer, choppier cut will help create some. Double down on the wave formation when you’re styling, too. “Hit it with a salt spray and rough it up so you have a natural, messy bedhead vibe,” says paster.
The Slick-Back
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As seen on Ewan McGregor
Instead of trying to create waves and texture where there isn’t any, you could go the opposite direction. “Fine hair likes to lay down, so you can lean into that,” says Paster. To get a good slick-back, your hair doesn’t need to be as long as you see here, but it should still be long enough that it lays flat.
Middle Part
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As seen on BTS
Truthfully, the only time this 90’s skater cut looks good is when it’s on fine hair. Fine hair lays down easily and isn’t as weighty as other hair textures, which can make this cut puff out at the sides like a mushroom. Think of this as an updated, longer bowl cut—still a young look, but a good way to optimize what your genetics gave you.
Mid-Length Mop
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As seen on Johnny Flynn
Another positive to having fine hair is that you can grow it longer without worrying that it will look poofy. Case in point, this long-ish style that’s a little rough and a little refined. Ask your barber to keep the ends choppy and natural, and use a salt spray or texturizer to give it a little attitude.
Choppy All Over
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As seen on Paul Bettany
Going short is totally possible with fine hair, too, and the same rules we laid out above still apply. Keeping it to just a few inches is fine, but make sure your barber adds texture by cutting in peaks and valleys, and not straight across. Just stay away from the thinning shears, since those are meant to thin out volume and aren’t good for fine hair, advises Hall.
Secret Agent Side Part
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As seen on Daniel Craig
This classic men’s cut looks good on all hair types, but especially good on fine hair. Since there’s usually little natural wave to fine hair, a side part can easily look slick and sophisticated. Instead of shellacking it down with gel, use a dry shampoo to add volume at the roots and then brush it or comb it in place while it’s dry. You’ll get volume but no wetness.
Updated Ivy
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As seen on Ryan Reynolds
If you have light-colored fine hair, getting a tight fade on the sides could allow more skin to peek through than you’d like. If you’re going for a classic fade look, ask your barber to still leave a little length on the sides (like you see here) that will give you the shape, but still allow fine hair to look more full.
Updated Buzz
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As seen on Maluma
Buzzes are the most democratic haircut—they’re a great option for literally any hair type and texture. But if you have fine hair and you don’t want a lot of skin to show through, leave a little more length on top like this. You’ll still get a clean buzzed look, but it will add visual height and help cover up any skin that peeks through.
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