Walter Chiapponi is a man on a mission. He wants to introduce sensuality and femininity into Tod’s language, amping up the fashion gradient of a label mainly known for its casual-chic Italian take on sportswear. It’s an ongoing process, which the designer is slowly but steadily building up every season.
For fall he worked on Tod’s classic outerwear repertoire, seen through the lens of what he called “a couture spirit.” Referencing a ’50s-inflected bourgeois silhouette, he added a touch of flourish and softness to tailoring and sporty pieces. Ruffled collars peeked out from a black leather piumino, or undulated on a big trapeze-cut overcoat and roomy wool caban. An enveloping citycoat and a loose-fitting blouson were belted at the front with a low-slung sash; a lipstick red pussy bow blouse was worn with a sharp-cut black leather A-line skirt.
To better telegraph the sensualist message he’s trying to convey, Chiapponi tried his hand at a slim-fitted, tighter silhouette—a first for Tod’s otherwise informal inclinations. Particularly convincing was an elongated black leather midi coat, gently form-fitting and “cut as if it were a couture robe-manteau,” as he explained. Elsewhere, a crisp cotton organza ensemble in light blue consisting of a feminine shirt with puffed sleeves and a pleated midi skirt suggested baby steps into more articulate ready-to-wear territory. Infused with refined playfulness, it looked rather promising.
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